Materials Used:

• Autosol Polish in a 3.3 Ounce Tube
• Micro Fiber Cloth
• Pair of nitrile gloves (Optional)
• Autosol Headlight Refinishing Kit (Optional)

Instructions and Application :

1. Apply a small amount of Autosol about the size of a nickel and spread it evenly on the taillight lens with your  finger tips of your gloved hand. Using a nitrile glove makes a lot of sense in that it is a non allergenic product, that not only keeps your hands clean but also allows you to apply the polish with much less waste. Using this technique, the Autosol polish spreads on evenly to the tail light surface. You also get a feel by the lessening of the friction that the tree sap is being removed and for the length of time you will need to polish the lens.

2. If you would rather apply the polish with a cloth, do so. Many people do use any old soft cloth they have around.  We recommend using a microfiber cloth and rub the paste in a circular motion until all the sap has lifted off the plastic lens. Microfiber cloths because of the nature of the way they are made work well for this application or for that matter almost any thing in the way of car detailing.

3. Continue around the tailight lens until finished. You may need to apply the polish additional times to clean the taillight when trying to remove dryed tree sap. This application also works well if you need to refurbish the finish of the tail light because it has gotten cloudy with age or the back up light section is hazed or cloudy.

4. Turn over the micro fiber cloth and wipe all the polish off and buff to a shine.

Optional - Use of the buffing wheel included in the Autosol Headlight Refinishing Kit. You will use the Autosol Polish and the steps listed above in the same manner. The buffing wheel and drill will just make the job go that much faster. The Autosol Headlight Refinishing Kit includes a 3.3 ounce tube of Autosol Polish, a pair of large nitrile gloves, a microfiber cloth and a 4″ inch extra thick buffing wheel with a 1/2 inch arbor.

1. Apply Autosol polish evenly on the headlight with the fingertips of your nitrile glove.

2. With the buffing wheel on your cordless power drill, slowly buff the polish so that it does not splatter.

3. Let the buffing wheel do the work using low speeds and polishing at 90 degree angles.

4. Continue around the  stop light lens until finished.

5. Use a micro fiber cloth and wipe all the polish residue off.  Flip the microfiber cloth over to a clean side  and buff to a shine.

Polish Guy Tip : “Mask off your lights with easy release low tack painters tape to avoid accidental damage to surrounding areas of your vehicle. Watch for heat build up that could distort your headlight lens caused by excessive pressure on the buffing wheel. This is usually not a problem, but it is good to be aware of it.“

Materials Used:

• Simichrome Polish in a 1.76 ounce tube
• Microfiber cloth
• Nitrile Gloves
• Fuller Detail Brush

Application:

1. Apply a dab of Simichrome to the finger tip of your nitrile glove about the size of a dime.

2. Apply the polish to the arms of the light fixture and base finial and rub it evenly over the entire surface with moderate pressure. Let stand for a couple of minutes to work, but do not let the polish dry.

3. Although any soft cloth will work fine, a microfiber cloth does a better job of removing the polish residue. Flip the microfiber cloth to a clean area and shine to the desired sheen.

4. Continue the process on the shade holder & globe part of the hanging lamp following the above application. In the intricate detail of the pierced design of the shade holder, use a Fuller Horse Hair Detail Brush to get the polish in and out of the intricate design areas of the light fixture.

5.  As this is a vintage piece, the idea is to just clean and polish the lamp fixture so that it looks good, not shine it to a brilliant mirror finish. Although you certainly could if that was the finish you wanted.

Hanging Light Fixture Before Being Polished:

Before and After Close Ups:

Materials Used:

• Cape Cod Metal Polishing Cloths in the Economy Size Can
• Cape Cod Horse Hair Detail Brush ( Optional )
• Microfiber cloth ( Optional )
• Cape Cod Metal Polishing Cloths in the Industrial Size Can ( Optional )

Instructions and Application :

1. Use the enclosed gloves that come in the tin to help keep your hands clean. Remove a pre-moistened Cape Cod Metal Polishing Cloth & rub the tarnished silverware briskly, back and forth,  but not hard with even straight strokes. The silverware polished was made by Rogers Brothers and is in the top section of the box shown in the after photo on the bottom right of this post.

2. Wipe polish off while still wet with the buffing cloth also supplied in the tin.

3. Return the polish cloth into the packet and place in can for future use. The polish cloth can be used over and over again no matter how discolored it becomes.

4. After buff drying your silverware, wash with a mild detergent, rinse and dry. This will not reduce the shine or protection.

5. When you see stains and discoloration on your stainless steel utensils, you should not be surprised. This type of metal will stain less and not rust. That is all you should expect.

6. The main difference in the way you polish stainless steel utensils is that you wipe them in one direction with the Cape Cod Polishing Cloth and then just wipe dry with the buffing cloth provided in the can to a dry finished shine.  As in step 4, wash with a mild detergent, rinse and dry before using. The stainless steel items polished are in the bottom section of the utensil drawer in the after photo on the bottom right of this post.

Polish Guy Tip : “Cape Cod Metal Polishing Cloths have the polish pre-applied to them and have a pleasant vanilla fragrance. Should any of the cloths become dry, a few drops of mineral spirits or vegetable oil will revitalize them. “

Optional - Use of a Cape Cod Detail Brush and Microfiber Cloth.

1. If any polish remains in intricate detailed embossed patterns of your flatware, use a Cape Cod Horse Hair Detail Brush, to clean it right out. The horse hair brushes are soft and gentle, an effective way to help get the most from your polishing effort.

2. For a mirror finish shine use a microfiber cloth and rub briskly.

Polish Guy Tip : ” Do not wrap your silverware in felt or chamois leather. They are sources of hydrogen sulfide, a strong tarnish inducer. Flannel or flannel with anti-tarnish protection would be a better choice.”

Before and After:

Materials Used:

• Autosol® Leather Cleaner in a 75 ml tube (3.33 ounces) tube
  
• Microfiber cloth
• Nitrile Gloves
• Fuller Detail Brush made of 100% horse hair
• Soft cloth ( optional )

Instructions and Application :

1. Apply a small amount of Autosol Leather Cleaner with a soft cloth right from the tube.  Apply the Leather Cleaner in a thin layer onto the surface of the leather car seat.  Let it sit there a few minutes. In hard to reach areas, such as where the stitching is deep by the edges of the seat,  it was easier to get the cleaner into that area by using a small soft horsehair brush.

2. Before the Autosol Leather Cleaner dries, rub the polish in a small circular motion with medium pressure using a soft cloth or even better yet a micro fiber cloth.

3. Turn the cloth to a clean side and wipe off the cleaner residue. Repeat steps 1, 2 and 3 as necessary until all the dirt,  grime  and the ink stain is lifted out. Continue on and do the whole seat.

4. Then do a final buff rub of the entire seat with a clean soft cloth. Micro fiber cloths are widely used in all types of car detailing. If you have never tried them before, we do recommend them to you. You don’t know what you are missing. The Autosol Leather Cleaner not only took out the stains on the seat but also revived the color and left a nice fresh appearance to the seat.  Autosol Leather Cleaner is also good to use on items made of leather, including brief cases, motor cycle bags and jackets, saddles, couches and even shoes. It will also clean matt plastics and vinyl leather. The manufacturer of this product does not recommend using this cleaner on suede leathers.

Before Picture of Leather Subaru Seat:

Before and After Closeups:

Materials Used:

• Flitz Polish 1.76 ounce tube
• Micro Fiber Cloth
• Pair of nitrile gloves
• Paper towel or small soft rag

Instructions and Application :

1. On the gas fireplace insert we cleaned, first we did not run the flame for an hour or so. Then take off the glass panel and let it cool to room temperature.

2. We first cleaned the inside of the glass with a glass cleaner and dried with a soft paper towel. Use a glass cleaner that contains no ammonia .

3. Left on the glass was some carbon soot marks that did not easily come off with the glass cleaner and the white film that you see in the photo. The glass cleaner did not remove the white haze. Take some Flitz polish directly from the tube and apply it to your gloved hand. Applying polish with gloves helps to keep your hands clean and spreads the polish evenly on the glass. You may also apply it on a soft cloth or better yet a microfiber cloth.

4. Rub the Flitz on in a circular pattern being careful to get it along the edges of the glass and in the corners.

5. Allow the Flitz to set and work for a few of minutes but do not let it dry. Take a soft clean cloth or paper towel and remove all the paste residue. You will notice the Flitz comes off easier than even the glass cleaner does. You know the glass is clean when you feel no drag on your cloth or paper towel. if you prefer you can even just use the Flitz polish and skip the glass cleaner step.

6. If the film remains in a some areas, reapply the steps above until the glass is clean to your satisfaction.

7. Wipe again with a clean micro fiber cloth and re-install the glass onto the fireplace.

If you have any brass trim on your fireplace use Flitz on that too. Its an easy way to shine that up too while you’re at it.  A microfiber cloth is a great to have around for wiping down the fireplace insert front. It polishes the brass, wipes out finger prints and traps dust like nothing you have ever used. It grabs and holds dust in. It does not spread it around like ordinary cloths do. It wipes glass streak free too.

Gas Fireplace Insert Before Being Cleaned & Polished:

Before and After Close-ups:

Polish Guy Tip : “Flitz is safe to use because it is a non-flammable water based product. It is also classified as a non abrasive non toxic polish.”

Materials Used:

• Simichrome Polish in an 8.82 ounce Can
  
• Microfiber cloth
• Nitrile Gloves
• Fuller Moldable Horse Hair Detail Brush
• Paper Towels
• 000 Steel Wool
• 0000 Steel Wool

Application:

1. Apply a small amount of Simichrome polish right out of the can about the size of a dime and spread it evenly over the entire surface of the wheel rim with your nitrile gloved hand. Repeat until the whole surface of the wheel rim is covered. Use the polish sparingly, a little goes a long way.

2. Let the polish stay on the wheel rims for several minutes, but do not let the polish dry.

3. Take a pad of 000 steel wool  and unroll a 2 to 3 inch piece and tear off.

4. Work the polish with the steel wool with mild pressure over the rust and remove it.

5. Wipe the polish/rust residue off the wheel rim with a soft paper towel or cloth. Repeat steps 1 -3 until the heavy encrusted rust has been polished off. Please note that Simichrome will not take out pitting or deep scratches.

6. At this point apply additional dabs of Simichrome with the tip of your nitrile glove all over the surface of the rim.  Allow to sit and work for a several minutes, but do not let the polish dry.

7. Change to 0000 steel wool ( the finest grade )and gently rub the Simichrome onto the surface, polishing the remaining rust and corrosion from the wheel.

8. Wipe off excess polish / rust residue with a soft paper towel or cloth.

9. Apply a some  Simichrome polish with the finger tip of your nitrile glove from the can onto the wheel spokes.  Again let sit for a several minutes and polish with more  0000 steel wool.

10. Use a Fuller Moldable Horse Hair Detail brush to get the polish into the area of the wheel where the spokes attach to the rim and the hub. Take a clean paper towel & remove the remaining polish residue of the wheel and spokes. Check your work and if any rust or corrosion is still present reapply the polish and work with 0000 steel wool until you are satisfied that it is as good as you can get it. Wipe off all residue with another clean paper towel.

11. Buff the wheel with a microfiber cloth to a high shine mirror finish. Simichrome will leave a film on the wheel that is not greasy. This retards corrosion and tarnish so your wheel will look better longer. Elapsed time to shine wheel was under an hour. This was a good test of what Simichrome polish is capable of doing. The polish and a little TLC brought this stroller that was purchased at a tag sale for $5.00 into a nice usable piece of equipment. That salvaged it from the local landfill . If you have a tough job to do, don’t hesitate to try Simichrome polish on it. Think green–recycle!

Before and After:

Polish Guy Tip : “This project is a good example why its a good idea to use nitrile gloves when using polish. Not only will it help to keep the rusty grime off your hands but it also helps to apply the polish evenly right where you want it..”

Materials Used:

• Church Polish & Cleaning Kit
• Micro Fiber Cloth
• Pair of nitrile gloves (Optional)
• Paper towel or small soft rag

Instructions and Application :

1.  Apply an ample dime size spot of non-toxic Flitz polish onto the finger tip of your nitrile glove.  The nitrile gloves is an easy way to apply a controlled thin amount of polish onto the chalice with out wasting any, as you would if it is applied with a cloth.  The gloves also aid in keeping your hands clean. Cover the entire brass surface of the chalice. Wait a minute or so and then wipe off the polish with a soft rag before it dries. The use of a microfiber cloth that comes with the kit works very well. Turn it often to get to a clean spot and buff briskly to a high sheen as desired. No mater what polish you use, always wash with warm soapy water, rinse and dry before using the chalice.

2. On the candle stick we used Simichrome polish that comes with the kit. It is a more aggressive polish than Flitz . It will clean and shine items like the brass candle sticks we are using in this demonstration quickly and easily. On items where there may be a heavy build up of candle wax, it is helpful if you remove the wax with hot water or even a hair dryer and wipe the wax clean with a paper towel before polishing. Follow the same basic steps that were used to polish the chalice on the brass candle stick. A Fuller Horse Hair Detail Brush is also included with this kit for use on any intricate designs that may exist on your ornate church appointments. The brush is handy for getting the polish in and out of these areas.

3. Try using the micro fiber cloth that comes with the kit for all your church dusting. You will be surprised how easily dust and dirt are trapped by the fabric. It does not just spread the dust around but actually traps it in the fibers. Microfiber cloths clean streak free and lint free.  They also work very well on glass and mirror surfaces with out any chemicals. Micro cloths are reusable 100s of times. To clean just machine wash warm with colors and air dry.

4. When using any polish, it is always advisable to try it in a small inconspicuous spot to see if you like the results especially on thinly plated items.

Polish Guy Tip : “Did you know that you can burn over 200 calories per hour cleaning your church? That’s good for your heart and your soul ! .“

Before and After: Chalice

Before and After: Candle Stick

Materials Used:

• Top Brite Metal Polish in a 1.76 ounce tube
• Fuller Detail Brush
• Microfiber cloth

Instructions and Application :

1 Squeeze a very small amount of Top Brite Metal Polish in small dabs in a number of places on the silver pin.

2.  You will find it easier if you use a Fuller Detail Brush to work the polish into the tooled patterned areas. You may also work in the polish with a clean soft cloth and the tip of your finger nail. Let the polish stand for a minute or so .

3. Wipe off the polish while still wet with a microfiber cloth and buff to the desired sheen. A soft cloth will also  work, but we have found that the micro fiber cloths shine streak free, scratch free and shed no lint. They are also good for touch up shining with out polish or chemicals for upkeep of your fine jewelry. Time elapsed to polish this brooch pin  was about 5 minutes.

Before and After:

Polish Guy Tip : “On any of your jewelry, consider using a soft horse hair detail brush. Old tooth brushes have bristles that are too hard for soft metals that fine jewelry are often made of.”

Materials Used:

• Autosol Metal Polish
• Moldable Horse-Hair Detail Brush
• 5″ Flitz BuffBall
• Micro Fiber Cloth
• Pair of nitrile gloves

Instructions and Application :

1.  If necessary, wash your wheels and let dry. Then apply a heavy dime size spot of Autosol Metal Polish onto the finger tip of your nitrile glove. Cover the entire surface of the wheel with a thin layer of polish and let sit for a minute or two.

Polish Guy Tip: “The nitrile gloves will help keep your hands clean as you reach into  the openings of the wheel castings to apply the polish. It also wastes less polish than you would if you applied the Autosol with a rag. But either application will work for you.

2. On hard to reach areas like around the lugnuts or to get into the sharp edges of the wheel casting, the use of a horse hair detail brush allows for easier application of the polish. The Fuller Horse-Hair Brush is soft and will not scratch the surface of the wheel like some brushes do, but is still stiff enough to get the polish right in where you want it to be. Also the brush’s handle can be held under hot water and molded to any shape you need to help get it into tight areas where a rigid handle brush might not be able to go.

3.You can just polish your wheels with a cloth at this point, or to speed things up, use a Flitz 5″ Original BuffBall attached to your drill. It makes the work much quicker & easier. Start the BuffBall slowly so as not to spatter the polish all over and then increase the speed. Keep the BuffBall moving and run it in and out of  the wheel casting. It forms right into the size necessary to polish the openinngs. It really worked well for us in this demonstation. Always polish with the Flitz Buffball turning in the forward or right rotation.

4. After you have completed step 3, clean up any remaining polish residue with a microfiber cloth.  Polish  to a high shine as desired. To keep your wheels looking good, periodically wipe down with the microfiber cloth to remove brake dust and light grime.

Polish Guy Tip: “Flitz recommends that their BuffBall be cleaned by hand washing. For best results soak overnight in a bucket of soapy water. Liquid dish soap works well. Remove from bucket and rinse well. Air dry and fluff.“

Before and After: